Basic Dinghy Sailing

1. Essential Knots & Ropework

• Bowline
  • Attaches the head of the jib sail to the halyard line.
• Clove Hitch
  • Secures the bow (front of the boat) to the dinghy trolley handle.
• Figure 8 Knot
  • Acts as a stopper knot at the ends of the mainsheet and jib sheets.
• Reef Knot
  • Used for tying together two ropes of equal thickness or securing sail ties.

2. The 5 Essentials

1. Sail Setting

• Outhaul (Controls tension along the bottom edge/foot of the sail):
  1. Controls how flat or curved the bottom of the sail is. Pulling it tight makes the sail flat (less power); loosening it creates more curve (more power).
  2. Light Wind (< 10 knots): Loosen completely, leaving a 10–15 cm gap between the sail foot and the boom to add draft and speed.
  3. Medium Wind (10–15 knots): Tighten moderately, reducing the gap to 5–10 cm for balanced sail shape.
  4. Strong Wind (> 15 knots): Pull fully tight until the sail foot touches the boom, flattening the sail to reduce power and heel.
  5. It is the first control line to adjust when reducing power in strong winds. Make sure the sail shelf looks smooth without creases.
• Cunningham (Controls tension along the front edge/luff of the sail):
  1. Pulls down on the front edge (luff) of the sail, moving the deepest curve forward, flattening the sail, and smoothing out luff wrinkles.
  2. Light Wind: Keep fully loose so the sail stays deep and powerful.
  3. Medium Wind: Pull lightly until wrinkles along the front edge just disappear.
  4. Strong Wind: Pull fully tight (even if diagonal creases appear) to push power forward, flatten the top, and open the leech (back edge) to spill wind.
  5. Typically tightened together with the vang in heavier winds, and fully loosened when sailing downwind.
• Vang / Kicking Strap (Controls downward boom pull and back edge tension):
  1. Pulls the boom down, controlling back edge (leech) tension, increasing twist, and keeping the boom from rising when easing sheets.
  2. Upwind (Light Wind): Keep loose or take out slack, letting the mainsail lower the boom naturally.
  3. Upwind (Medium Wind): Tighten moderately so the top telltale flies about 50% of the time.
  4. Upwind (Strong Wind): Pull fully tight ("vang sheeting"). This keeps the boom down and twist open even when easing the mainsheet, reducing boat heel.
  5. Downwind / Reach: Loosen completely to keep sail full, let the boom rise, increase speed, and avoid a death roll.
  6. Essential tool for depowering in heavy wind; pull it before turning to keep control.

2. Balance

• Make active use of footstraps.
• Keep your back straight; do not bend forward.

3. Trim

• Sit in the middle of the boat during close-hauled or beam-reach courses.

4. Course Made Good

• Steer the most efficient path toward your destination, adjusting for wind, waves, and tide.

5. Centreboard

• Provides sideways resistance so the boat can sail upwind. Raising it reduces drag and sideways force, keeping the boat upright.
• Upwind (Light–Medium Wind): Lower fully for maximum grip and higher windward angle.
• Upwind (Strong Wind): Raise 10–20 cm (or more) to restore stability and prevent the boat from tripping over its board.
• Beam Reach: Raise about 1/3 to 1/2 to lower drag and gain speed.
• Downwind: Raise 1/2 or more to minimize drag and prevent death rolls.
• It is usually the last depowering control to adjust (adjust sails first). On a Pico, use a bungee line to hold its position.

3. Maneuvers

Tacking

1. Helm: "Ready about!"
2. Crew: "Ready!" (or "Wait!" if not ready)
3. Helm: Pushes tiller toward the wind (away from the sail), turning the bow through the wind.
4. Helm: "Lee-ho!" (or "Coming about!").
5. Crew: Swaps and trims the jib sheets to the new side during the turn.

Gybing

1. Helm: "Ready to gybe!"
2. Crew: "Ready!" (or "Wait!" if not ready)
3. Helm: Pulls the mainsail in slightly to control boom swing, and points the tiller toward the boom to start turning.
4. Helm: "Jibing!" (or "Gybe-oh!") as they push the tiller away and duck under the boom.
5. Crew: Releases the old jib sheet, grabs the new one, and shifts weight to balance the boat.
6. Helm: Straightens tiller right after the boom crosses, shifts body weight, and eases the mainsheet out on the new tack.
7. Helm/Crew: "Jibe ho!" once the maneuver is finished.

Golden Rule

Complete the turn and balance the boat BEFORE switching hands. Never swap hands mid-turn.

4. Capsize Recovery Steps

1. Check Safety: Ensure both sailors are safe, clear of lines, rigging, and boom. Call out to each other.
2. Ease Mainsheet: Release sheets to depower the sail and avoid fighting water resistance when righting.
3. Swim to Centreboard: Move around to the windward side where the board sticks out.
4. Extend Board Fully: Make sure the board is pulled out all the way.
5. Climb onto Hull: Step onto the hull near the centreboard root (not on the casing).
6. Right the Boat: Grab the board with both hands and lean back, using your body weight to leverage the boat upright.
7. Keep Sheets Loose: Keep lines clear so the sails do not catch wind immediately.
8. Re-enter Boat: Stay close to the boat as it rights; climb in over the stern (back edge) while staying low and centered.
9. Sort the Boat: Ensure mainsheet is free/untangled and tiller/rudder is centered.

5. Sailing Terms & Vocabulary

General Terms

• Windward: The side or direction facing into the wind.
• Leeward: The side or direction facing away from the wind.
• Sheeting in: Pulling a sheet rope closer/tighter.
• Sheeting out / Easing: Letting a sheet rope out to loosen the sail.

Points of Sail

• No-Go Zone: Directly into the wind (cannot sail here).
• Close Hauled: Sailing as close into the wind direction as possible (~45°).
• Close Reach: Between close hauled and beam reach.
• Beam Reach: Sailing perpendicular (90°) to the wind direction.
• Broad Reach: Sailing diagonally away from the wind.
• Training Run: Deep reach course heading downwind safely.
• Running: Sailing directly downwind with the wind behind you.

Parts of a Sail

• Luff: Front edge of the sail facing the mast/wind.
• Leech: Back trailing edge of the sail.
• Foot: Bottom edge of the sail.
• Head: Top corner of the sail.
• Tack: Front-bottom corner where luff meets foot.
• Clew: Back-bottom corner where leech meets foot.
• Telltales: Small pieces of yarn, ribbon, or fabric attached to both sides of the sail (usually along the luff/leech) that show airflow across the sail

Steering & Hardware

• Rudder: Flat underwater blade at the stern used to steer.
• Tiller: Control handle attached to the top of the rudder.
• Traveller: Track with a sliding block to adjust the boom's lateral angle.
• Ratchet Block: Pulley that grips the line in one direction to ease holding force.
• Fairlead: Small loop or fitting guiding lines at proper angles.
• Gooseneck: Hinged joint connecting the boom to the mast.
• Gunwale: Top edge rim around the boat's hull.
• Shackle: U-shaped metal locking pin connector.

6. Launching & Recovery Procedures

Launching

1. Ensure the boat is fully rigged (sails up, lines checked), but mainsheet fully eased.
2. Push the boat into water until knee-deep (stern floats, bow touches bottom for control).
3. Keep the bow pointed directly into the wind at all times to keep sails luffing.
4. Crew Entry: Crew climbs in near the center to stabilize the boat while Helm holds the bow.

• Insert centreboard halfway down.
• Lower rudder blade until it just touches the water (unlocked).

5. Helm turns the bow toward open water while keeping it clear into the wind.
6. Helm Entry: Helm grabs tiller, climbs in, and pushes off the beach using feet.

Recovery / Landing

1. Ease mainsheet fully before entering shallow water to spill all wind.
2. When water reaches waist level, pull centreboard all the way up.
3. Raise rudder blade so it clears the seabed.
4. Helm keeps boat bow into the wind while sliding into water.
5. Crew steps out into waist-deep water near the bow/center to hold the boat steady.
6. Lower both feet together slowly when exiting.

Resource

Laser Pico Rigging Guide